The story
The beauty industry has historically served white women, leaving women of color with fewer options and more reasons to feel different. Now inspiring black women are trying to change that narrative for generations to come.
How did we get here?
How much time do you have? Eurocentric beauty standards have been the dominant ideal in the United States since before its founding. And the color white has long been associated with purity. For example, during slavery, only slaves with lighter skin were allowed to work in the home. Fast forward, and this preference for fair skin and white features has a long trail: In a 2016 study, black women have reported that an overwhelming preference for fair skin persists and affects the way they see themselves.
What does this have to do with makeup?
For much of the 20th century, the mainstream beauty industry was geared almost exclusively to black women when market skin lightening creams. The Black is Beautiful movement of the 60s and 70s helped open the public to different definitions of beauty. And then later makeup artist brands like MAC and Bobbi Brown started embracing black women and reaching out to a wider range of skin tones.
What is the situation today ?
There is still a long way to go. According to a report published by Nielsen in 2018, black shoppers spend approximately $ 465 million on skin care (a $ 3 billion industry) and $ 473 million on hair care per year (a $ 4.2 billion industry). Especially compared to their percentage of the population, black shoppers have a disproportionate influence – and it seems products have (finally) started to reflect that more. In 2017, Rihanna launched Beauty Fenty with 40 shades of foundation – an unprecedented level of representation at the time. Established brands like Dior and Revlon have since announced foundation lines in 40 shades. But beauty schools have been critical for not doing enough to educate artists to work on wide ranges of skin colors and hair textures. Big retailers like Nordstrom and Target have launched inclusive beauty sections to showcase black-owned businesses. And 15% commitment – signed by Sephora – pushes brands to devote more space to brands owned by blacks.
And at the individual level?
Many inspiring women have worked throughout history to make these changes happen. Meet some of the beauty queens:
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Mrs. CJ Walker… one of the first black female millionaires in the United States. Its line of hair products designed for black women in the early 20th century set an unprecedented example in standing up for black women in the industry.
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Pat McGrath… When the artist meets the businesswoman. McGrath’s the Black makeup artist with a eponymous brand which secured a $ 60 million investment in 2018. His business is valued at $ 1 billion.
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Balanda Atis… The scientist behind your basket. She is the cosmetic chemist who runs L’Oréal’s multicultural beauty lab, where she develops new products for women of color. Her team has helped develop dozens of new foundation shades under the aegis of L’Oréal, studying the skin tones of women representing 57 countries.
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Kimberly smith… The founder of Beauty Marjani, an online makeup retailer designed for women of color. Smith, a former lawyer, said she wanted to create a space where black women didn’t need to compromise on quality.
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Amaya smith… Not related to Kimberly, but they work side by side. In 2018, Amaya founded Product addict, which helps black women find natural hair products. Together, she and Kimberly launched a brick and mortar retail space in DC, The Brunette beauty cooperative, which sells hair and makeup items designed for women of color.
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Cashmere Nicole… The founder of Beauty bakery, a cosmetics line that puts its money where its mouth is and supports social justice causes around the world. Their best-selling, vegan-friendly lipsticks caught the attention of Gabby Douglas, who became a collaborator, and Unilever, who invested $ 3 million.
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Lake Louise… Another unusual founder, with a spin of his own. Louise is the founder of Skin, Mind, Body (SMB) Essentials, which creates green brands. So far his company has launched Plain Jane Beauty, Lotus Moon Skin Care, SON and Detox RX, a brand of detoxification supplements.
leSkimm
“Beauty is Only Superficial” takes on new meaning when it comes to racial disparities in the beauty industry. While there is a long way to go, there are many beauty queens struggling to bridge the gap.
Skimm’d by Becky Murray, Avery Carpenter Forrey and Jane Ackermann
